There are many kinds of car rigs, from hood mounts to “hostess trays,” side mounting, car-mounted jib arms, stabilizers, and full-blown process trailers. Each set up provides something different in terms of shot selection, flexibility, and how much you are asking the actor to do. On many large films, when an actor is seen driving a car, the car is often being towed behind a process car, so the actor doesn’t have to drive, and instead can concentrate on their performance. That isn’t possible for every shoot, and it may not work stylistically for your shoot, so if you are looking to add shots from a car-mounted camera to your next filmmaking endeavor, read on as I go over some basic ways of rigging a camera to a car, focusing on suction cup and magnetic mounting.
Safety, Safety, Safety
Be safe—it is only a movie and not worth anyone getting hurt, or worse.
Rigging a camera to a car is more complicated than strapping luggage onto a roof rack and hitting the highway. If you are rigging a camera to the outside of a moving vehicle, you want to check into local laws and requirements when using public roads. Also, getting a grip on board who knows about rigging cameras to cars will be an immeasurable help, and I cannot recommend that enough. Remember to always “safety your gear,” much as you do when hanging lights from a grid, which means running extra ropes/ties/cables to your device as a backup in case your attachment method fails.
Do not obstruct the driver’s view with your rig.
Basic Mounts
Suction cup mounts and magnetic mounts are fast and easy to set up, and perform much the same function, although there are differences. Obviously, with magnetic mounting you must attach the mount to a metal (iron or steel) surface, and suction cups must be attached to smooth, nonporous flat surfaces. I’ve become more fond of magnetic mounting, because a dirty surface or age may lead to issues with suction cups, but I was able to use magnetic mounts and a suction cup successfully, as you will see.
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